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Three Days in Mexico City

Home to more standout museums and galleries than you can count, under-the-radar culinary gems, and a unique mix of both ancient and cutting-edge architecture, Mexico City allures visitors from all over the globe. The ultrachic neighborhood of Polanco boasts some of Mexico’s finest restaurants as well as some important cultural institutions, like the Museo Nacional de Antropología, while Roma Norte and Condesa are prime for endless exploration (and shopping). And the borough of Coyoacán—famous for being the birthplace of world-renowned artist Frida Kahlo—is a worthy destination in its own right. Whether you visit for two weeks or a long weekend, CDMX will undoubtedly change you.

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Day 1: Polanco

 

Stay

 

About 10 miles from Mexico City International Airport, the endlessly chic Casa Polanco brings new life to a 1940s neocolonial mansion, the striking result of a painstaking four-year renovation. With 19 rooms and suites, it offers first-rate amenities (like a thoughtfully curated library and biweekly meditation sessions) in an intimate environment. You’ll be just steps from Parque Lincoln, a small but well-kept park that’s popular with the locals, as well as some of the city’s best restaurants.

 

Do

 

As Mexico’s most-visited museum, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is home to the world’s most comprehensive collection of ancient Mexican artifacts. Join a local archaeologist for a private tour and unlock pieces of the past as you view the 24-ton Aztec Sun Stone, a replica of Moctezuma’s feathered headdress, an intricate model of Tenochtitlan, and more.

 

For over 20 years, Proyectos Monclova has played a prominent role in both the local art community and international art scene, featuring the works of both emerging and established artists in an industrial-cool gallery setting. If you’re lucky, you might see the works of greats like Helen Escobedo and Ángela Gurría on display.


Beloved by locals and architecture lovers alike, the Iglesia San Ignacio de Loyola, from renowned architect Juan Sordo, offers a (stunning) respite from the crowds. On sunny days, the interior is particularly spectacular, with the stained-glass windows creating a kaleidoscopic effect.

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Eat and Drink

 

Before or after your visit to the anthropology museum, pop into Er Rre un Bistró, helmed by chef Lorea Olavarri, who spent a portion of her childhood in France. It’s known for serving internationally inspired fare—like the signature caviar bread—in an ambient, cozy setting.

 

Diners have been flocking to Pujol, one of two restaurants in Mexico City with two Michelin stars, for over 25 years for contemporary Mexican cuisine. The brainchild of chef Enrique Olvera, it’s celebrated for its mole madre, which has been made from the same batch of mole for over a decade.


Step through the doors of Handshake Speakeasy and you’ll be transported back to the Prohibition era thanks to the moody lighting and interiors. Named the best bar in North America for two years running, Handshake serves innovative cocktails like olive oil gimlets and matcha martinis.

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Day 2: Roma Norte and Condesa

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Do

 

Known for its tree-lined boulevards and high concentration of charming boutiques, Roma Norte is a shopper’s paradise. Ikal Store carries a well-curated selection of clothing from both local and international designers; for beautifully crafted accessories, furniture, textiles, and more, visit the design boutique Lago DF; and Goodbye Folk is the place for one-of-a-kind vintage gems.


Like Roma Norte, Condesa is best explored on foot, with a loose plan (or no plan at all). You’d be remiss to not take a stroll through Parque México, one of CDMX’s most picturesque spots. Under the Volcano is a cozy hideaway for book lovers, with plenty of popular and more-obscure titles on offer. And the Capilla de las Capuchinas, a chapel located inside a convent for Capuchin nuns, offers both artistic inspiration and moments of stillness thanks to influential Mexican architect Luis Barragán.

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Eat and Drink

 

Chef Elena Reygadas brings Italian-Mediterranean flair to Condesa in the form of Lardo, a casual eatery just blocks from Chapultepec Park. Although it serves up excellent wood-fired pizzas and salads, breakfast is really where Lardo shines (try Reygadas’s famed guava rolls).

 

For an afternoon refresh, stop by the enchanting Club Sorbet, where you can unwind on the open patio with rich gelatos and a thoughtful selection of wines (don’t forget to bring along a good book).


Stylish but never stuffy, the 12-seat Kill Bill Sushi offers an outstanding omakase menu while doubling as a jazz listening bar. Choose from three tasting menus—Kill, Bill, or Kill Bill—featuring a variety of nigiri, sashimi, and warm bites.

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Day 3: Coyoacán and Tacubaya

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Do

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Visit what was once the longtime residence (and birthplace) of artist Frida Kahlo at Museo Frida Kahlo, located about seven miles from CDMX’s city center. The instantly recognizable blue-and-maroon building houses a collection of work from both Kahlo and her husband, Diego Rivera, not to mention many personal objects from the couple.


Built in 1948 and a designated UNESCO World Heritage site, Casa Luis Barragán is Mexican modernism at its finest. It previously served as the Pritkzer Prize–winning architect’s home and studio and dazzles visitors with bright splashes of color and clever use of light.

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Eat and Drink

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Before hitting Museo Frida Kahlo, pop into Cafeología for a quick cup of coffee—after all, Coyoacán is known for its strong café culture. For a noncoffee option, try the tascalate, a traditional chocolaty beverage from Chiapas that’s made from maize.


In downtown Coyoacán, Los Danzantes is also worth a stop before you head back to the hotel: Known for contemporary Mexican fare—think enchiladas made with duck confit and turkey topped with Oaxacan black mole—the restaurant is set in a historic stone building, complete with a charming patio off the main plaza.

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